Monday, June 24, 2013

If You're Going to Italy, Go to Venice

Venice is a city synonymous with love and beauty. Millions of people discover or rediscover its romance every year. And cruise ships are no strangers to its bustling port.

The incredible architecture of the city seems to float on the surface of the canals. It is ancient and has been an important and powerful city since its founding. As a crossroads between the Byzantine and Roman worlds, Venice developed a unique culture and style that remains visible today.

The Jewish community in Venice began as a collection of refugees. Jews from Germany and Central Europe created the Ashkenasi community, Spanish and Portuguese refugees the Sephardim, and the Levantines came in from Constantinople. Many became money lenders helping to finance the Palazzos and acting as a vital cog in the city's booming economy.

Venice was home to the world's first Jewish ghetto, established in 1516. The word ghetto is derived from the Italian word getto (foundry). The ghetto is located on an island, separated from the rest of the city per Pope Paul IV's strict segregation rules. Two large gates closed off the area after curfew and the hinges of those gates are still visible. The ghetto residents were marked by yellow rounds on their chest or yellow hats.

Despite impossible to assimilate conditions the Jewish community thrived becoming both wealthy and highly educated. Many important figures emerged including doctors responsible for treating royalty, Kabbalists, Talmudists, Gnostics, Alchemists, politicians and poets.

At last count there were approximately 500 Jews living in Venice, only a few of whom continue to live in the Ghetto. Musea Ebraica (Jewish Museum) has an extensive collection of Judaica objects from intricately carved silver. The entrance includes a visit several synagogues counted among the most beautiful in Northern Italy.

For anyone planning a tour of Italy, Venice is a stop not to be missed.

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Jewish History in the South of France

France has been a sometimes haven for Jewish refuges since the days of the Roman Empire. Life in the region has been a mixture of struggle, perseverance and adherence to belief. Added together these elements have created a fascinating history.

Israelites arrived following the destruction of the Temple of Herod and the conquest of Jerusalem. The tragedy at Massada occurred in the same time period forcing a Jewish diaspora throughout the Mediterranean. The South of France became one of the main areas of refuge. Most of the exiles were merchants, slave-dealers, tax collectors and physicians. And most lived in the Phoenician Marseilles area. During the Middle Ages, Jews in the region were expelled and allowed to return on several occasions. In 1384, 100,000 Jews living in the South of France were forced to relocate, most ended up in German speaking areas.

Instability did not hinder prosperity. The 11th century was a time of intellectual and cultural awakening for Franco-Jewish thinkers and artists. Iiturgical poetry, interpretations of the Bible and Talmud commentaries came to light. Including the daring and depth of Ashkenazi genius Rabbi Rashi. It was the start of a scholastic tradition that established the area as a center of Jewish learning.

The first exile was not the only exile. The Jewish population in Southern France grew with the expulsion of all Jews from Spain and exiles from Eastern Europe, Tunasia, Algeria and Morocco.

The Jewish communities in the region have produced intellectual, financial and artistic luminaries like Rashi, James Mayer de Rothschild, Sarah Bernhardt and many more. Today France has the 3rd largest Jewish population in the world behind only Israel and the United States. Most live in Toulouse, Marseilles, Lyon and Paris.

The natural beauty in the South of France is legendary and nestled within that beauty you will find ancient synagogues, museums depicting Jewish life and some of the best kosher restaurants anywhere. It is the perfect destination for a Kosher tour!

Monday, June 3, 2013

Jewish Ghetto in Rome. A Story of Tragedy and Triumph.

Rome is one of the great cities of the ancient world.

Rome is one of the great cities of the modern world.

You know the names; Pantheon, Vatican City, Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Sistine Chapel. You should see them. You should take pictures and enjoy the experience. You should also go past them into the ghetto.

The Jewish ghetto, first established in 1555, has been the site of deplorable persecution and awe inspiring resilience. All Jews from the poor to the wealthy and influential were forced to live within its walls. Most were poor and all were forbidden to practice medicine. The living conditions were subhuman and if that weren't degrading enough residents were required to wear yellow hats or yellow stripes to identify their marked status. The curfew was dusk at which point the entire community was locked in behind three massive gates. Not even faith was left untarnished. Residents were forced to attend Catholic services on the Sabbath. During the Black Plague the community lost almost a quarter of its population. The list of abuses and tragedies goes on and on. But, so do the tales of perseverance and community strength no matter how daunting the obstacles.

Most of the Old Ghetto was torn down in the 19th century, however, many old stores, museums and interesting relics remain to give you a glimpse at the heartbreaking history of the Jewish people in Rome.

Thankfully attitudes have changed in modern years. Today the neighborhood is one of the most charming and vibrant areas in Rome. The streets have been widened and lined with great Kosher restaurants, Jewish owned shops, and a beautiful synagogue that has a trying history of its own. The neighborhood is small enough that you can easily cover it on foot.

Cruise the Mediterranean in luxury. Enjoy every part of Rome from the ancient to the modern. But, take a few moments longer to appreciate this tiny neighborhood that has survived so much and gotten so much better with age.