Rome is one of the great cities of the modern world.
You know the names; Pantheon, Vatican City, Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Sistine Chapel. You should see them. You should take pictures and enjoy the experience. You should also go past them into the ghetto.
The Jewish ghetto, first established in 1555, has been the site of deplorable persecution and awe inspiring resilience. All Jews from the poor to the wealthy and influential were forced to live within its walls. Most were poor and all were forbidden to practice medicine. The living conditions were subhuman and if that weren't degrading enough residents were required to wear yellow hats or yellow stripes to identify their marked status. The curfew was dusk at which point the entire community was locked in behind three massive gates. Not even faith was left untarnished. Residents were forced to attend Catholic services on the Sabbath. During the Black Plague the community lost almost a quarter of its population. The list of abuses and tragedies goes on and on. But, so do the tales of perseverance and community strength no matter how daunting the obstacles.
Most of the Old Ghetto was torn down in the 19th century, however, many old stores, museums and interesting relics remain to give you a glimpse at the heartbreaking history of the Jewish people in Rome.
Thankfully attitudes have changed in modern years. Today the neighborhood is one of the most charming and vibrant areas in Rome. The streets have been widened and lined with great Kosher restaurants, Jewish owned shops, and a beautiful synagogue that has a trying history of its own. The neighborhood is small enough that you can easily cover it on foot.
Cruise the Mediterranean in luxury. Enjoy every part of Rome from the ancient to the modern. But, take a few moments longer to appreciate this tiny neighborhood that has survived so much and gotten so much better with age.
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